Journey To Shri Amarnath

It is said that not everything can be explained. For me, my desire to pay my respects at the holy cave of Shri Amarnath was one of those things. Situated in the mountains of South Kashmir Himalayas, the holy cave of Shri Amarnath stands at an altitude of 12756 ft above sea level. The word “cave” is a deceptive description, it’s so much more than that. To get a better picture, and for the uninitiated, let me roll back a bit and introduce you to the place that commands the love, reverence and devotion of so many people. 

A natural stalagmite located in the Amarnath Mountain, the Shri Amarnath cave is where it is believed Lord Bholenath narrated the Amar Katha to Ma Parvati. According to the myth, the katha bestowed eternal life to whosoever heard it. Thus, the Lord chose this cave so that no other living being would be within earshot. That is, except for our humble pigeons (the ancestors of the  ones that are giving Mumbaikars sleepless nights) who reached the cave and also heard it.

The holy cave lies cradled between steep, magnificent mountains and is not visible for most part of the journey. In fact, nothing really prepares you for the first glimpse of the holy shrine. There are two routes that lead a devotee to Shri Amarnath. The first one is the older, more traditional South Route, which starts from the serene valley of Pahalgam. The second is the more recently developed alternate North Route that starts from Baltal.

Pahalgam Route is a beautiful 16 km journey along the Lidder river. With gorgeous deodar forests in the Sind valley, it makes for a beautiful start to the yatra. The next landmark is Pissu Top, followed by Sheshnag, the place where devotees camp for the first night. It is actually seven peaks overlooking a serene lake that’s considered holy by many. After a steep climb of a little over 4 km, one enters the beautiful meadows of Panjtarni where the second night is spent. The next morning one reaches the holy cave for the darshan.

Baltal Route takes a day’s walk back and forth to Shri Amarnath. This 14 km walk one way is much steeper and in many areas the climb is a 45 degrees uphill ascent. Though it’s a difficult climb especially due to lack of acclimatisation, the Baltal route has gained popularity due to the shorter distance. The route also offers helicopter service for pilgrims.

My Journey Earlier this year, I got the chance to realise my wish. I was fortunate to be accompanied by my aunt, two sisters and a niece. The first step was the registration process, which is fully computerised. Pilgrims between the ages of 13 to 70 years who have no significant heart, respiratory or other serious health issues can undertake the yatra. That completed, the countdown to the journey to Shri Amarnath begins.

Day of the Trek The night before the trek was spent at the army base camp at Domel. Too excited to sleep, we spent most of the night anticipating the experience that lay ahead of us. The day began at 4 A.M. when the authorities opened the route to the holy cave. We were among the hundreds of devotees connected by a sense of shradha. Young, old, people from all walks of lives, men women, transgenders all walking alongside each other in one belief. Then there were the local people, who though of a different faith are the ones that make this journey possible for thousands every year.

The initial start of the route is the steepest, mostly a 45 degree incline, but since one is fresh, it makes the climb a little easier. As the first rays of the sun touch upon the sharp, steep peaks surrounding the path, one hears the rumble of the first chopper announcing it’s already 6 in the morning. Four civil choppers in continuous circulation carry pilgrims from Nilagrar base to the holy cave throughout the day. Their rumble becomes a comforting background noise for the city people who might not be used to the otherwise quiet of the mountains.

There were hundreds of yatris walking on a narrow meandering path and the fact that no one was banging into each other or pushing each other struck me. Strangers started conversing with one another, all the while maintaining their own pace. I came across many husbands holding their wives’ hands encouraging them to keep up their spirit and self-confidence. And many youngsters holding the hands of their mother or father who probably insisted on walking up instead of taking the ponies or the palki.

The palki word really cannot be used to describe what is actually a chair mounted on two poles. In my humble opinion, the people who volunteer to sit on these contraptions are the bravest and I bow down to their nerves! Watching these people being carried by four men walking on the treacherous path, I held my breath for them!

A special mention must be made of the men carrying the people. Considering people come for the yatra after travelling hundreds for kilometers from different regions, climate and terrain, the difference in altitude and oxygen levels means that many of them find it advisable to opt for these palkis. This one-day yatra gives them a lifetime of fulfilment.

The men who carry them are mostly locals from nearby areas. Skinny men with lanky build do this journey every day with the weight of another human being upon their shoulders. They walk on the rocky, dusty path in perfect synchronisation with each other. With just a gamcha as padding between the heavy bamboo pole and their bony shoulders, they have to walk fast to make their way among the hundreds of others on the track, which is especially harder on the way down. The back-breaking labour that they do every day for the duration of the yatra, is a reminder that if it wasn’t for them, many devotees might have to forego their pilgrimage.

The spirit of seva can be seen abundantly all around. Every year to make the yatra to Shri Amarnath more comfortable for the pilgrims, non government organisations from all over the country put up pandals offering food and refreshments. These can be found all through the yatra. Some people put up pandals from as far as Uttar Pradesh and many other states. They offer all kinds of food, from puri–halwa to pasta and chocolate mousse! It is true that we Indians take our food very seriously! These pandals provide welcome respite for a while to the tired yatris. Along with the pandals are crucial emergency points set up by the Indian Army to provide medical aid and perform other rescue operations in case of emergencies.

As we approached Kali Ma ka Mandir, we got the first glimpse of the holy cave. I suppose a mix of physical exertion and the anticipation of finally reaching the destination turned out to be a potent mix. I saw many pilgrims getting teary eyed and I’m a bit embarrassed to admit that I also fell into the same category. Standing on that narrow track, looking at a destination I wanted to reach for so long, was a poignant moment.

By this time of the day, the sun was high up in the sky and beating down on us in the unadulterated environment. It is advisable to carry a cap and a face mask to protect against the colossal amount of dust as the area is dry at that time of the year. We saw adorable and fearless marmots dotting the landscape, as huge lines of ponies carrying pilgrims could be seen on the other side of the river. It was truly a fascinating sight, hundreds of people and ponies but so peaceful and surprisingly quiet.

As we approached the holy cave, the energy and tempo started to build up. At the entrance of the cave were the last 340 steps. I paused for a moment, savouring the coldness of the stone steps, which were a welcome relief from the beating sun. I looked around and saw marvelous sights. There were people from all walks of life with folded hands, men and women praying with tears streaming down their faces, mine included.

We were smiling, teary faced with unpretentious acquiescence, our hands folded in devotion as we entered the holy cave. In front of me was the Shivling, Ma Parvati, Kartikey and Ganeshji in the form of ice. Feeling immensely blessed, next I looked for the blessed pair of pigeons and was rewarded by the sight of the pigeons and their babies! Humbled by the whole experience and thankful for not being rushed out of the worship place, which is the usual experience in almost all holy places in our country, we made our way out. At the exit, we paid our respects to Nandiji.

With the darshan done, it was time to make way for the others and begin our journey back to the base. By now, the sun was directly above us and we were thankful for carrying our caps. The walk back was a lot dustier and it was definitely more taxing on the knees than climbing up. In many places, I wished that I had carried a trekking pole. With the ponies and the palkiwalas heading back minus their breaks and the dust rising, the true challenge of the yatra, we realised was not the walk up but the journey back. By the time we reached the base, we are unrecognisable and looked like we had walked out of a sand storm – even our eyelashes were brown! Looking at each other, we had a hearty laugh.

The journey to Shri Amarnath is not only that of a religious purpose but also a spiritual one. It seemed as if the walk up was a metaphor for life itself. So many people walking on the same narrow path, interacting and then losing each other. It reminded me of the many  people I met over the years but lost touch with – fellow travelers on our own journey. There was a sense of catharsis in the end. Perhaps, that was the reason why such pilgrimages were undertaken towards the later part of one’s life.