LADAKH: LURES ALLURINGLY

Gyalu (Prince) Stanzin Jigmed Namgyal is the 27 years old descendant of the 400-year-old Namgyal Dynasty of Ladakh. Using the Ladakhi greeting, “Julley to all!” he introduces, “I spent my early years in boarding school at Wynberg Allen, Mussoorie. Instead of pursuing conventional college, I took up an internship, which included being in the kitchen at The Deck, an Italian restaurant at the India Habitat Centre, New Delhi. This was under the guidance of Rohit Khattar, Founder Chairman of Old World Hospitality Pvt. Ltd., reputed for his restaurant brands — the iconic Chor Bizarre, Indian Accent and Comorin to name a few.”

Stanzin was in New Delhi for a three-day roadshow to promote, A Taste of Ladakh, a pop-up event at Chor Bizarre, in conjunction with Old World Hospitality. “Stok Palace endeavours to honour Ladakh’s culinary heritage by presenting an authentic taste of the royal kitchen. We try to deliver a genuine experience – keeping the dishes simple and thoughtfully prepared. At its core, Ladakhi food, deeply rooted in the region’s geography and traditions, reflects its people’s resourcefulness and innate connection to nature. It is comfort food with the use of indigenous, organically grown ingredients that flourish in the unique environment of each region within Ladakh. It brings its own variation and flair to the table, with dishes that tell the story of the land and its people.”

“For instance, Yarkhandi Pulao, a delicacy with origins that go back to the Silk Route era, showcases the historical exchanges and influences that have shaped Ladakhi culinary traditions. Other delicacies include: Khambir with Tangthur, a traditional sourdough flatbread; Gyathuk, a Chinese-style Thupka; O-Skyu, thumbprint pasta; Pheymarr and much more. While this is a notable start, continued efforts are needed to promote Ladakh’s food globally.”

“Post my internship, I returned to Leh to gain hands-on experience in travel, tourism, and hospitality under my father’s guidance. To enhance my knowledge, I pursued a management course in the hotel and travel industry at Le Cordon Bleu, Paris. The exposure to luxury travel and tourism was invaluable. Though I had long-term plans for Stok, the pandemic brought me back to Leh sooner than anticipated.”

Stanzin has since “implemented numerous changes at Stok and created new avenues for business. I learned the importance of having the right people for the job to bring more height to the venture. Also, I was inspired by the French who typically promote their culture and food, and are very proud of ‘locavore’ — elevating local produce and giving back to the community. I tried to introduce this farm-to-table-style of cooking at Stok from the first day.”

His Highness Gyalpo Jigmed Wangchuk Namgyal, 56, takes over and reminiscences about “how different Stok Palace is from the various homes I lived in during my childhood. Each had a sense of heritage, but residing here has a different meaning in timelessness. It is a privilege and honour, and to me, most importantly, a sense of responsibility to preserve, conserve and restore the rich legacy of Ladakh. Yet, its changing dynamics are challenging.”

The five-storey high Stok Palace, circa 1820, where royalty still resides, was built by craftsmen in Ladakh. It continues to be the fortified, secure, snug and sheltered abode of the family. The palace traces its origin to Lhachen Palgyigon, the 10th century Tibetan founding King of Maryul. With over 200 years of history that encapsulates the lifestyle of the royal family of Ladakh, Stok was opened to the public in 1980. Blessed by His Holiness the Dalai Lama, Stok has since been hosting global travellers.

“Though renovated in phases since 2007, Stok has retained much of its original character. Traditional methods and elements were used, some even meant reviving dying traditional crafts. Moving forward, the ambience will continue to remain the same,” affirms HH Jigmed.

Access to the private quarters is allowed on request. An interaction with the 34th generation monarch, perhaps in his official chambers or elsewhere in the palace, is memorable. HH Jigmed is a mine of knowledge on Ladakh’s history, culture, heritage, and natural scenic wonders.

Preserved from urbanity and one with the elements, the fortified Stok Palace stands in stately grandeur atop a barren hillock in Singey Sangpo, better known as the River Indus Valley. Majestic on the outside, the enigmatic palace comprises 60 rooms. The throne room, royal suites, a living monastery that’s visited daily by chanting priests, a well-preserved curated museum, six guest rooms of three varying categories, a dining café, three-storeyed granary and staff quarters – all these are interconnected by a labyrinth of corridors with some leading to open-to-the-sky courtyards.

The young scion, Stanzin, has “created Zimshag within the palace by renovating five more rooms and a terrace. Additionally, we introduced the Willow Kitchen at Chulli Bagh Villas Orchard, a restaurant offering our guests global cuisine. Overall, we offer a stay that celebrates traditional heritage architecture and answer it with contemporary comforts.”

Yet the real treat lies in guests becoming a part of the living heritage of this iconic landmark of Leh — with its enthralling stories, fascinating secrets, and visits from oracles — making it a once-in-a-lifetime happenstance, worthy of a repeat visit.

The Namgyal descendant aims to promote Stok “not just as a place to stay in, but consider it an immersive cultural experience, including through showcasing traditional rituals and palace life.”

Stanzin continues, “Before COVID, inbound tourists from India and abroad dominated our clientele. Post-pandemic, domestic tourists have shown an increasing interest in staying at the palace for its rich cultural experience. Leh is now attracting adventure lovers, particularly bikers, while trekking has declined due to improved road connectivity. We intend to promote Ladakh as a year-round destination with each season offering its unique experiences. Especially, considering expanding our offerings, including winter sports. A step towards this is keeping our Chulli Bagh Villas, located just below Stok Palace, operational throughout the year.”

Future? “My focus is on strengthening Stok’s presence and seeing where this journey takes us. With targeted marketing, we have successfully revived inbound tourism. For Stok, 2024 has been an incredible year.”

Stanzin obviously thinks like his generation does. “Adventure Tourism in summer with trekking, river rafting, mountain biking, motorbiking on the highest motorable roads, and high-altitude winter activities in the offering packages that combine adventure. Marketing is key — both digital and traditional travel trade promotions are essential. Government initiatives in promoting Ladakh would also be beneficial,” he elaborates.

Acknowledging his responsibilities as the palace owner, HH Jigmed, confesses to his favourite part of his regal home – the timelessness, steeped in history and originality, of the Queen’s Room. He sums up, “When my guests leave, I would like them to take back our living heritage, culture, monistic experience, culinary excellence, folk music — and above all the gentleness of the people of Ladakh.”