‘Sometimes you have to go back to where it all began to find yourself again, return to where you came from to feel some things again.’ I wrote these words after visiting the Gurdwara in Lakhpat in 2015 for the first time.
It was my first trip to Kutch. At the time, I wasn’t even aware of the existence of the ancient fortified town of Lakhpat, let alone its importance. Located some 140 km from the city of Bhuj to the far northwest corner of Kutch, Lakhpat makes for an imposing sight with its massive 20 feet high walls rising up against the stark landscape of the Great Rann of Kutch on its east and Kori Creek on the west.
Once a flourishing trading port between Gujrat and Sindh, Lakhpat was called Basta Bander in the 16th century. According to folklore, its name changed to Lakhpat (town of millionaires) because of the number of millionaires or lakhpatis living in the town between 1750 A.D. and 1820 A.D.
A part of the province of Sindh, Lakhpat’s strategic location at the mouth of the Indus river on the Western edge of the Indian subcontinent meant that it was on all major trading routes in Western India. There’s a popular story that suggests that it was the daily revenue of one lakh kauris (the old currency of Kutch state) generated by its maritime trade that gave Lakhpat its name.
Its fortunes took a turn in 1819 when an earthquake devastated the town and changed the course of the Indus river. Thus, in one stroke, the bustling port turned into a barren forgotten town, its stories of lakhpatis and kauris buried in the ruins. What remained are its massive fort walls, several temples and dargahs and the Lakhpat Gurdwara.
Known as Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi (Gurdwara of the first master), it was built to commemorate Guru Nanak Dev ji’s visits to Lakhpat during his second and fourth Udasis in 1506 – 1513 A.D. and 1519 -1521 A.D. respectively. It is home to holy relics like the Guru’s khadavas (wooden sandals) and his carved and painted wooden palki in addition to old manuscripts in Sindhi on the Gurbani and the markings of two of the heads of the Udasi sect.
The Founder and the first Guru of Sikhism, Guru Nanak Dev ji travelled extensively along with Bhai Mardana on spiritual journeys called Udasis (a prolonged absence from home). He travelled through the Indian subcontinent and West Asia, seeking wisdom and sharing it with those he met. During two of those journeys on his way to Mecca, Guru Nanak Dev ji stayed at the home of a local Sindhi family of Lakhpat. The family preserved the house to commemorate his visits, which was later established as a Tikana of the Udasi sect by the Guru’s son, Srichand.
The Lakhpat Gurdwara has the architectural style of a typical Udasi dera with a unique courtyard structure. There’s an outer enclosure with a big gate and nagar khana (big drums), then comes the courtyard, a verandah and the room inside. An ancient well in its compound is considered holy as it has sweet water, unlike the salty water that is found in the underground aquifers in the area.
Constructed in limestone, the Gurdwara has chabutras and statues in human and animal form embedded to its walls. The verandah has exquisitely carved wooden columns and the walls are painted with motifs of the period – flowers, ships, royal personage, etc. It has even retained the historic graffiti done on its walls by the pilgrims in the late 1800s describing the details about their journey in the ancient larivaar script.
It is this quality of keeping true to its origins that gives the Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Lakhpat an added dimension. The simplicity it embraces resonates deep within and gives a lesson in the transience of life as seen in the fate of a once thriving port of millionaires reduced to an almost forgotten village of deserted streets and derelict homes.
With the stark expanse of the salt plains of the Great Rann on one side and the lapping waves of the Arabian Sea on the other, the Gurdwara in Lakhpat is a place that connects you deep within yourself to better understand those conversations you have with your god. The message it conveys is that the essence of faith is to be enduring, while remaining unaffected and unchanged, through time and tide.
Such an interesting read….written so well Rashmi.Make the place come alive.
Thanks a lot Mona 🙂 Putting it on our To-do list :))
Wow !!!! Have to plan a trip –
Thanks a ton Rajni 🙂 And absolutely must :))
Quite an informative and interesting article.
Thanks a ton Vishali 🙂
Wow…sooo beautiful and informative. Many people don’t know about these facts. Well penned 👌👌
Thanks a ton for the great feedback Tina :))
Beautifully narrated !! It takes me back to the days we spent there !!
Thanks a ton Aunty 🙂 I was remembering all the days we spent there together…such wonderful memories :))
Just what I needed to read. Very well written too. Would love to visit.
Thanks a ton Preeti 🙂 Absolutely must visit :))
What a beautiful Article Mrs Nayar. After reading this one feels like visiting the place. Very well penned down!!
Thanks a ton Shrishti 🙂 You absolutely must go…you will love it :))
So very informative and interesting!! Your captivating writing makes for a compelling visit soon
Thanks a lot Bela…hope you are going to write about your recent road trip…do share 🙂
Will surely plan a visit to this interesting site
Thanks a lot Priyanka…and it’s definitely a must visit 🙂
Ma’am tussi great ho.. We really admire & appreciate your energy levels to do all these kind of activities. We think ek chakkar toh banta hai. Warm Regards 🙏🏻
Thanks a ton Randeep 🙂 Bilkul banta hai…especially with the Indep in loc…this is the best opportunity :))
The last line is so beautiful, that is how I would want to live my life.
This piece brought back so many lovely memories. Visualized the place, the fort, everything through your words. Remember the three of us ( you, Kavitha and I), taking a walk in the night on the outskirts, the sky was so alive.
I’m so touched by your words Aparna 💜 You know, even I thought of that crazy midnight walk that the three of us went on…it was such an amazing experience…the moon was unbelievable…I think I might even have a grainy picture of that walk. Such incredible memories!
How can we forget that, Aparna? May be we took a left instead of right and ended up in the right place 🤗😂. Miss you girl. Look forward to many more crazy memories.
WOW!! What a lesson in history too, besides the deftly handled elucidation by you about the historic LAKHPAT GURUDWARA SAHIB….a gurudwara tucked away in an obscure corner of Kutch. The Rip Van Winkles and the ilk are shaken up to come alive to this vast oasis of warmth and peace. Yes, the unwavering faith surely is a constant which keeps one going.
Kudos to you for unfolding this beautiful flower, petal by petal.
Thank you so much for such wonderfully motivating words Mrs Sachar 💜 I always look forward to your feedback…it gives a great insight into what’s resonated with you… greatly appreciate it… thank you again :))
No one is left untouched after their visit to Lakhpat. The moment I first visited the place during the recce I knew I found my place and start line for the runners. The first baba who was there for first two years is sorely missed. The place, it’s history, the silence all around and it’s people have a place in my heart. Beautifully written, Rush. I miss our photography sheath mode and the labor of love of marking and executing the race. The many chais and unending banter, and the ‘silence of the desert’ 😂Let’s go make some more memories.
So true Kavitha, no one is left untouched after their visit to Lakhpat. And you are responsible for getting me to the Rann of Kutch 🙂 All of us recall those days with immense fondness and the wish to return some day. Let’s make that happen! Thank you for writing in – it’s made my day and how…hugs
Loved reading it, very interesting. You have describeed it so well, makes one want to visit the place. Never heard of it before. Lovely read.
Thanks so much Aunty, appreciate your feedback always. It’s a huge compliment that my write up is making you want to go there. 🙂
Rashmi it is always a treat reading what you write . A gurudwara in an interesting setting made to come alive with your beautifully worded description
Thanks so much Mrs Deva. You are the most adventurous person I know, I so hope to be like you. Thank you for the encouraging words always ❣️
Sounds interesting….. How does one reach the Gurudwara from Ahmedabad and also the place of stay ….
Thank you for writing in. From Ahemdabad, you can take a bus or a taxi to Bhuj. And from Bhuj take a taxi to Lakhpat.
I plan to Visit Gurdwara Lakhpat Sahib. Kindly help me with Contact No of someone in the Gurdwara management.
Also, whether stay arrangement is available (absolutely no luxuries are expected)
Thanks in advance Gur Fathe