Lake Bled, Slovenia

I caught my breath! The image on my screen showed an azure lake with a little mole-like island on its face, filling a bowl surrounded by densely forested mountains. It was a picture of Lake Bled as seen from a hiking trail. This I had to see for myself, so I started off on the travel preps.

The first step, finalising the Slovenia itinerary, was proving to be difficult. Apart from the capital Ljublajana (not pronounced the way it is spelt), we wanted to narrow it down to two other places to avoid being on the road and crisscrossing the beautiful country on a merely ‘see-all-feel-none’ kind of trip.

Slovenia sits pretty, yet quietly between its more famous neighbours – Italy, Austria and its Balkan cousin Croatia. It’s just as well as it’s a tiny country not meant for the masses. You can drive across the country in a day: going from the Julian Alps to the Adriatic coast; crossing forested mountains criss-crossed by hiking trails and bears; valleys with quaint villages clustered around steepled churches; vineyards producing award winning wines; and charming fishing villages clinging to the shore.

There is Italy’s famous Lake Como, the playground of the rich and famous, but a similar charm and beauty on a cosy, laidback scale – that’s what Lake Bled is all about. To add to its already considerable quaintness, there is even a pastry named after it.

Speed up at Bus Stops
After exploring the smallest capital we have ever visited – Ljublajana (the name seems bigger than the place) with its castle and dragon stories – we arrive at it’s bus-stand. It is no more than a cul-de-sac outside the railway station where the buses pull in, load up and depart on the dot. In the same vein is the grill door guarding the staircase that leads to the washroom in the basement of the ticket counter. It also does not wait an extra second I discover, much to the exasperation of the guy with the key and my embarrassment as he probably catches me on the camera rattling the door trying to get out! It’s all automated, not to mention the most expensive washroom in the entire trip.

Once on the move, we drive between mountain ranges through lush green valleys and villages in a time warp, flocking like the faithful around fairytale churches with coloured spires – sometimes cherry red, some green and even a mulberry coloured one – towards the Julian Alps. Before we know it, the ranges close in and we are in the small town of Bled. It’s spread on the only low-level opening to an alpine bowl.

Here the bus-stop is in the middle of a circular road in the centre of town. Clearly, the Slovenians see no point in wasting space for transiting vehicles. We wheel our luggage through the pathways winding down the gentle slope to the lake and to our small hotel overlooking it. It is even more beautiful and alive in person. We witness the lake catching the sun coming through the drifting clouds as it chills the breeze blowing over it. It is a perfect day to be out, and the crowds by the lake and those lunching on the patio outside the hotel all seem to agree.

Promising Path
We leave our luggage at the hotel and dive into the crowd, strolling on the path between our stay and the lake that winds around the waters. It skirts the lake, never leaving sight of it. Initially, it is in the shadow of a forested steep slope, below the ruins of Rikli Villa – the home of Arnold Rikli, a naturopath ahead of his time, who recognised the therapeutic powers of Lake Bled’s bounty – its water, air and light. Then we cross some manicured estates by the lake. The mansions facing the lake, sit in silence, impervious to the people at the back. We notice some sort of an endurance event taking place, with people running and jumping obstacles. The penalty seems to be to jump in the waters, which clearly doesn’t appear to be throwing cold water on their energetic enthusiasm.

Soon enough, it’s time to take a picnic lunch break. So, we find a bench almost at the other end of the lake. All the while the island in the middle, famously Slovenia’s only one, has been beckoning us to take a gazillion pictures. A lot of people are rowing themselves to the island but it looks like quite the workout, so we get into a wooden pletna to be ferried across. The view from this end of the lake is of the castle on top of the hill. It’s a spectacular sight with the sun putting a spotlight on the trademark terracotta tiled roofs on top of sheer white cliffs. The dark Karavanke mountain range on the horizon, half hidden beneath low clouds, makes a perfect foil to the bright foreground.

Boats, Bells and Beliefs
Getting off the boat at the island’s wooden jetty, we climb up to the Church of the Assumption of Mary on top with its tall bell tower. Built over an ancient pagan site, the church has been rebuilt from gothic to the current baroque style in the 17th century. A café gives the church company as expansive steps lead down to the water on the other side. There’s a small grotto that sits midway, blessing the climbers. A pathway encircles the teardrop shaped island, giving a view of the surrounding vistas. There is an air of wistful, wishful…peace? A bell in the nave tolls out every now and then, thanks to a popular belief that ringing it grants a wish. Its sound carries the wishes far and wide into the valley.

Back on the shore, we head out to complete the walking circuit. A wooden portion on the crystal-clear water is a nice surprise. Strolling past some more villas discreetly screened by fall-coloured trees, we spot a lone swan meditating near the shore. There’s even a toboggan rail that snakes down the middle of a meadow behind an estate. A memorable walk completed, we return to our hotel and discover our tiny balcony faces the lake. It’s the perfect place to put up our feet and have a well deserved perk-me-up-cuppa!

Waiting to be Fed
Soon enough, it’s time for an early supper. It’s the golden hour and people are already sipping their sundowners in the eateries lining the main road of this little town. The place we decided on looks like a charming farmhouse off the road. The waiting is long but since goulash it has to be, and it has to be this evening, we book a table and wander into town.

In the next hour or so, we explore most of it, crossing nary a soul save two fat cats who, after socialising, settle down outside a restaurant waiting to be fed. We wander past the bus-stop right up to the foot of the castle hill, admiring some lovely houses and trying not to pry into beautifully tended gardens. We explore deserted bylanes, as we make our way back to the quaint wood and stone interiors of the farmhouse for a dinner time meal of flavourful game goulash. The hearty meal is a perfect rounding off to a dream day.

Bird’s Eye
Early next morning, we hike up from our stay to the castle on top. It takes a little searching to discover the start of the trail, which begins from St. Martin’s Parish Church at the feet of the castle’s cliffs. The church’s spire stretches like a needle pointed at the sky. There is a beautiful stone sculpture of Mary in front of the church along with bushes of peonies blushing a bright pink in the spring air.

European Golden Finches, colour coordinating with the wild yellow flowers they frolic in, and a lawnmower that silently finishes its work and parks itself with precision in its cover at the base of a tree are the only life we see till we reach the parking outside the castle. Made in the 11th century it is apparently Slovenia’s oldest. The eyrie-like perch of the castle, offers a bird’s eye view of the azure-coloured lake below on one side and on the other, villages that dot the wide undulating valley ending in snow peaked mountains. In the distance, a hot air balloon drifts lazily.

The sumptuous breakfast we are served on our return on the patio outside our hotel is a glutton’s morning dream. The spread on the table and setting – the lake dazzling in the morning light stretching out in front, a tree on a side bowing to it’s beauty, all vie for our attention. Delightful sparrows join us to help us finish our breakfast, (they have fine tastebuds!). I could do this every day, the wistful thought and a ringing of bells in the mind follows. But till then, I will carry a slice of Bled, as light as it’s memory, to savour later.

Fact File.
Distance –
Lake Bled is about 30 km from the airport and approximately 55km from Ljublajana.
Stay –
We stayed at Vila Preseren.
Food –
The Oldest Bled Cellar is a charming place. The game goulash there is fantastic. It is best to reserve a table in advance.
The best place for Bled Cream Cake is the Park Restaurant where it was first made.
Entry –
There is an entry fee for the Church on the island and the castle.
The Castle timings are –
Summer 8am-8 pm
Winter 8am-6pm