Lake Bled: Slovenia

I caught my breath as the image on my screen showed an azure lake with a little mole-like island on its face, seemingly filling a bowl surrounded by densely forested mountains. It was a picture of Lake Bled as seen from a hiking trail. I just knew that I had to see this for myself, and started my travel preps.

The first step was finalising the Slovenia itinerary, which was proving to be difficult. Apart from the capital Ljublajana (not pronounced the way it is spelt), we wanted to narrow it down to two other places to avoid being on the road and crisscrossing the beautiful country on a merely ‘see-all-feel-none’ kind of trip.

Slovenia sits pretty, yet quietly between its more famous neighbours – Italy, Austria and its Balkan cousin Croatia. It’s just as well as the tiny country is not meant for the masses. You can drive across the country in a day: going from the Julian Alps to the Adriatic coast; crossing forested mountains criss-crossed by hiking trails and bears; valleys with quaint villages clustered around steepled churches; vineyards producing award winning wines; and charming fishing villages clinging to the shore.

While Italy has the famous Lake Como, its playground for the rich and famous, Slovenia’s Lake Bled has a similar charm and beauty on a more cosy and laid back scale. In addition to its already considerable quaintness, there is even a pastry named after it.

Speed up at Bus Stops
After exploring the smallest capital we ever visited, Ljublajana (the name seems bigger than the place) with its castle and dragon stories – we arrived at its bus-stand. No more than a cul-de-sac outside the railway station, its where the buses pull in, load up and depart on the dot. Quite in the same vein as the grill door guarding the staircase that leads to the washroom in the basement of the ticket counter. It too does not wait an extra second. I discovered it much to the exasperation of the guy with the key and to my embarrassment as he probably saw me rattling the door trying to get out, on the camera! It was all automated and also the most expensive washroom on the entire trip.

Once on the move, we headed for the Julian Alps. We drove between mountain ranges through lush green valleys and villages in a time warp, flocking like the faithful around fairytale churches with coloured spires – some cherry red, some green and even a mulberry coloured one. Before we knew it, the ranges closed in and we were in the small town of Bled. It’s spread on the only low-level opening to an alpine bowl.

Here the bus-stop is in the middle of a circular road in the centre of town. Clearly, the Slovenians see no point in wasting space for transiting vehicles. We wheeled our luggage through the pathways winding down the gentle slope to the lake and onto our small hotel overlooking it. It is even more beautiful and alive in person.

We witnessed the lake catching the sun coming through the drifting clouds, chilling the breeze blowing over it. It was a perfect day to be out – the crowds by the lake and those lunching on the patio outside the hotel, all seemed to agree.

Promising Path
We left our luggage at the hotel and dived into the crowd, strolling on the path between our hotel and the lake. The winding path skirted the lake while never leaving sight of it. Initially, it was in the shadow of a forested steep slope below the ruins of Rikli Villa, the home of Arnold Rikli. Rikli was a naturopath who recognised the therapeutic powers of Lake Bled’s bounty – its water, air and light.

Next we crossed some manicured estates by the lake. We saw the mansions facing the lake, sitting in silence, impervious to the people at the back. We noticed some sort of an endurance event taking place, with people running and jumping obstacles. The penalty seemed to be to jump into the water, which clearly didn’t appear to be throwing cold water on their energetic enthusiasm.

Soon it was time to take a lunch break. So, we found a bench almost at the other end of the lake. All the while the island in the middle, famously Slovenia’s only one, had been beckoning us to take a gazillion pictures. A lot of people were rowing themselves to the island, but it looked like quite the workout, so we got into a wooden pletna to be ferried across.

The view from this end of the lake was of the castle on top of the hill. It was a spectacular sight with the sun putting a spotlight on the trademark terracotta tiled roofs on top of sheer white cliffs. The dark Karavanke mountain range on the horizon, half hidden beneath low clouds, made the perfect foil to the bright foreground.

Boats, Bells and Beliefs
Getting off the boat at the island’s wooden jetty, we climbed up to the Church of the Assumption of Mary on top, with its tall bell tower. Built over an ancient pagan site, the church had been rebuilt from gothic to the current baroque style in the 17th century. A café gave the church company as expansive steps lead down to the water on the other side. There was a small grotto that sat midway, blessing the climbers. A pathway encircled the teardrop shaped island, giving a view of the surrounding vistas. There was an air of wistful, wishful…peace. A bell in the nave tolled out every now and then, thanks to a popular belief that ringing it grants a wish. Its sound carried the wishes far and wide into the valley.

Back on the shore, we headed out to complete the walking circuit. A wooden portion on the crystal-clear water was a nice surprise. Strolling past some more villas discreetly screened by fall-coloured trees, we spotted a lone swan meditating near the shore. There was even a toboggan rail that snaked down the middle of a meadow behind an estate. The memorable walk completed, we returned to our hotel and discovered our tiny balcony faced the lake. It was the perfect place to put up our feet and have a well deserved perk-me-up-cuppa!

Waiting to be Fed
Soon enough, it was time for an early supper. It was the golden hour and people were already sipping their sundowners in the eateries lining the main road of this little town. The place we’d decided on looked like a charming farmhouse off the road. The waiting was long, but since goulash it had to be, and it had to be that evening, we booked a table and wandered into town.

In the next hour or so, we explored most of it, crossing nary a soul save two fat cats who, after socialising, settled down outside a restaurant waiting to be fed. We walked past the bus-stop right up to the foot of the castle hill, admiring some lovely houses and trying not to pry into beautifully tended gardens. We explored deserted bylanes as we made our way back to the quaint wood and stone interiors of the farmhouse for a dinner time meal of flavourful game goulash. The hearty meal was the perfect rounding off to a dream day.

Bird’s Eye
Early next morning, we hiked up from our stay to the castle on top. It took a little searching to discover the start of the trail, which began from St. Martin’s Parish Church at the feet of the castle’s cliffs. The church’s spire stretched like a needle pointed at the sky. There was a beautiful stone sculpture of Mary in front of the church along with bushes of peonies blushing a bright pink in the spring air.

The European Golden Finches, colour coordinated with the wild yellow flowers they frolicked in, and a lawnmower that silently finished its work and parked itself with precision in its cover at the base of a tree were the only life we saw till we reached the parking outside the castle. Made in the 11th century, it’s apparently Slovenia’s oldest. The eyrie-like perch of the castle offered a bird’s eye view of the azure-coloured lake below on one side. While on the other side, villages dotted the wide undulating valley ending in snow peaked mountains. In the distance, a hot air balloon drifted lazily.

The sumptuous breakfast we were served on our return on the patio outside our hotel was a glutton’s morning dream. The spread on the table and setting – the lake dazzling in the morning light stretching out in front, a tree on a side bowing to it’s beauty, all vied for our attention. Delightful sparrows joined us to help us finish our breakfast, (they have fine tastebuds!). Oh, how I wished I could do this every day! As my wistful and wishful thoughts took hold of me, I knew I would be carrying a slice of Bled, forever with me.

Fact File.
Distance
Lake Bled is about 30 km from the airport and approximately 55 km from Ljublajana.
Stay
We stayed at Vila Preseren.
Food
The Oldest Bled Cellar is a charming place. The game goulash there is fantastic. It is best to reserve a table in advance.
The best place for Bled Cream Cake is the Park Restaurant where it was first made.
Entry
There is an entry fee for the Church on the island and the castle.
Castle timings
Summer: 8 am – 8 pm
Winter: 8 am – 6 pm